From 19 to 25 September, Milan Fashion Week unfolded: with 62 shows, 72 presentations, 4 appointment-only presentations, and 33 events in addition to the digital shows on the final day, Monday 25th.
The catwalk shows of Spring/Summer 2024 also offered an opportunity for the National Chamber of Italian Fashion to present the report Fashion Economic Trends, which predicts a positive future for the industry: turnover of the 1st half of 2023 increased by 25% on the same period in 2022. And while the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation still remains strong, the Italian fashion industry looks ahead with optimism and a whole load of creativity.
The much-anticipated events: Gucci and Tom Ford
The show that attracted most media attention was undoubtedly that of Gucci, which also marked the debut of its new creative director, Sabato De Sarno. With his arrival, the Florentine fashion company enters a new chapter, heralding it as such even before the big event by resetting the brand’s Instagram account to highlight the arrival of a new captain at the helm. De Sarno did not disappoint, choosing to celebrate the Gucci heritage with minimalism and refined details. The designs are sharp, with the iconic monogram repeated on little black dresses and shorts. References to the Gucci archives are evident as the omnipresent and distinctive red and green symbol of the company becomes a striped print.
All eyes were also on Tom Ford brand, where Peter Hawkings is creative director, having collaborated for 20 years with the Texan designer and founder of the eponymous label. The continuity provided by the creative director with the legacy he inherited shines through the entire collection, which presents incredibly seductive looks, figure-fitting shapes and daring necklines.
Ph.: Tom Ford
Sensuality at the forefront for Dolce & Gabbana and Blumarine
The Dolce & Gabbana woman is seductive in suspender stockings, split skirts and dresses, lace, see-through fabrics and lots and lots of black. The brand showed how being sensual does not necessarily mean wearing stiletto heels; it is equally possible with ballet flats or total white outfits. Finally, the black panther of fashion, Naomi Campbell, stepped down the catwalk in, ça va sans dire, her classic sexy stroll.
In the Spring/Summer collection, Blumarine debuted the creations of Nicola Brognano: super-sexy PVC outfits, body-hugging fine knitwear, dresses covered in knots and dresses in perforated mesh. The designer also stayed faithful to rhinestones on jeans and cherished butterflies.Exploring the fashion brands’ distinctive features: Etro and Moschino
The creative director of Etro Marco De Vincenzo has named his collection ‘Nowhere’: because fashion is a non-place, where anything can happen. The character of the fashion company is clear, particularly in the reappearance of the floral prints and embroidery, and the re-proposal of the classic Paisley pattern.
Eyewear goes outsize and Etro revealed a new model for this season’s eyewear collection, in partnership with Safilo, which will come out in January 2024: Etromacaron. With its hi-tech design, the new model emanates an exclusive savoir-faire, complete with distinctive features such as the emblematic Pegaso.
For the Maison’s 40th anniversary, Moschino celebrated its founder, Franco Moschino, putting the S/S collection into the hands of four designers: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu. The show, in four parts (one for each of the new creators) put a modern slant on iconic creations from a past marked by the disruption and revolution of traditional fashion laws. Precisely to underline the link with its founder, the models strutted the catwalk in jeans and a white slogan T-shirt, which has been produced in a limited edition (available from the store in Via della Spiga and the online store, with proceeds from sale going to the Elton John AIDS Foundation).
The casual elegance of Max Mara
The S/S 2024 collection from Max Mara doffs its cap to the land girl uniforms of the Forties, and revisits Fifties-style femininity, for casual chic elegance.
Colour, according to Philipp Plein and Fendi
Colour and sensuality are the fil rouge of the S/S 2024 shows from Philipp Plein, inspired by Pop Art. A fun and true colour explosion of a show at the Allianz Cloud arena of Milan: at the centre of the ground was a huge carousel, where male and female models sat, after walking the catwalk, in the midst of dancers on skates and breakdancers. According to the designer, fashion is “fun” and his own fashion is filled with joy and lightheartedness.
Seductive colours cross through the creative world of Kim Jones. With him, the silhouettes from Fendi become geometric, in vibrant hues. Inspiration comes straight from the S/S 1999 collection by Karl Lagerfeld.
Ph.: Fendi
And, finally, there was King George
As always, the series of shows ended with King George, with his immaculate elegance in shades of bronze, grey, blue, and green, right up to white. The atmosphere is magic, floating: jackets and trousers are soft, skirts in tulle, brilliant fabrics, seductive sequins and low heels.
The elegance of Giorgio Armani seems timeless, half-way between a magical universe and the real world. Because he is the indisputable king of fashion.