John Galliano leaves Maison Margiela after ten years: What’s next?

After a decade at the creative helm of Maison Margiela, John Galliano has announced his departure from the brand. The news, confirmed by the designer himself in an Instagram post, marks the end of an era for the French house, which experienced extraordinary growth and innovation under his leadership. Galliano expressed gratitude towards Renzo Rosso, founder of the Italian group Only The Brave (OTB), which owns Margiela, describing their relationship as akin to that of a family.

Born in Gibraltar in 1960 and raised in London, Galliano first gained recognition with a French Revolution-inspired collection at St. Martin’s School of Art. His meteoric rise led him to Givenchy in 1995 and Dior the following year, earning him the Legion of Honor in 2009. However, his career took a downturn in 2011 following a scandal involving anti-Semitic remarks. After a period of rehabilitation and with the support of Renzo Rosso, he made a triumphant return as Margiela’s creative director in 2014.

Under his guidance, Maison Margiela became one of the most avant-garde fashion houses in the world. His collections redefined the essence of couture, blending innovation, culture, and distinct values. The brand’s sales grew significantly during his tenure; in 2023 alone, despite the challenges faced by the luxury sector, Margiela's revenue increased by 22% compared to the previous year. Rosso highlighted how Galliano inspired young creatives and made Margiela a unique global brand.

Galliano’s departure comes at a time of major shifts within the fashion industry, characterized by frequent changes in leadership at luxury houses. Michael Rider has replaced Hedi Slimane at Celine, Alberto Caliri has returned to Missoni, while both Fendi and Chanel are still seeking new creative directors following the exits of Kim Jones and Virginie Viard. Meanwhile, according to Business of Fashion, LVMH might involve Galliano in internal restructuring, while others speculate he could be a contender for leadership at Chanel or Fendi. The influential Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue America, recently praised his work, fueling rumors of a triumphant return to luxury fashion.

In a heartfelt farewell, Galliano bid adieu to Maison Margiela, saying, “As this beautiful fashion house and I part ways, my heart overflows with joyous gratitude, and my soul smiles.” The fashion industry is now abuzz with anticipation over his next move, certain that wherever he goes, his talent will continue to inspire and redefine the boundaries of creativity.

Renzo Rosso closed with a message of affection and respect: “I wish John all the best for the future and am confident that there will be further collaborations. His contribution will forever be etched in the history of fashion.”